A night of dining at the Patara Restaurant at Soi 11, Sathorn Road, came as a result of a discussion we had with our son Tom. It was more like an argument, about the merits of Thai food, and how it is spreading around the world. We, Mitch and Steve, claimed that to be good, Thai food has to be universal, that is, a restaurant in New York had to be as good as a good restaurant in Thailand. Tom disagreed. Thai food can be innovative, basically Thai but with Western influences.

"And still be good?" Mitch asked.

"And still be good." Tom said and then went on to tell about a restaurant in London that gained fame for its unique Thai food. It's called Patara. It was then we learned that there is also a Patara Restaurant in Bangkok. Of course, to win a point, Tom invited everyone for a meal at the restaurant.

We have to admit, we were impressed with the decor. The entrance was pleasing, leaning on the elegant side, with a tropical setting. Inside the decor was simple, modern style, predominately beige in colour, with one large dining room and two private dining rooms. The floor was tiled, inlaid with teak. There were plenty of cushions everywhere, with an abundance of rich Thai silk.

Tom began by reading the introduction to the menu: "A trendy and stylish array of Thai dishes with an authentic taste." While Tom was reading, we had four unusual martinis, made from apple juice. The kick came about five minutes later.

Tom then ordered from a menu the size of a small telephone book. That very first dish that was served changed our minds about innovation. At once we knew this was going to be an exceptional meal.

The opening, from "Patara Suggests," was an assortment of rice noodle rolls, each dish different, but equally well presented. In fact, the dishes were so well presented we felt we were maligning the food by eating it. But we soon learned, presentation is only one aspect of gracious dining at Patara. It come s down to the final analysis--taste.

One dish was with prawn and avocado, another with crabmeat and shrimp and the third with crispy soft-shell crab and herbs. We four shared the dishes, trying to determine was one better than the other. They were all winners. We, Tom's mother and dad, had never had such exquisite tastes before. Tom won the bet over his father from the first course. What would be next?

Tom seemed to know what he was doing. The waiter brought slices of raw tuna in a lime and lemongrass vinaigrette. Excellent. I thought the next dish Tom ordered might be the main course but it was sill part of the entree. It was Lemongrass marinated New Zealand rack of lamb, accompanied with a spicy chili sauce, green papaya salad and sweet rice rolls.

Next came our appetizer, a trio of golden fried chicken prawns and vegetable spring rolls. With that we skipped the salads, as tempted as they sounded, like Piquant pomelo salad with Norwegian smoked salmon and so many more interesting-sounding dishes.

Then came our main course. Tom and dad had braised New Zeeland lamb in massaman curry; Michelle and Tom's wife shared slices of crispy pork loin in sweet and sour sauce with green apple and vegetables. We also had a golden fried whole pomfret savoury tamarind sauce which we all shared. Tom was right. Here was a Thai taste with a touch of French flavour added. All we could do was praise the chef, which we later learned, was a Thai lady.

Rice came in different styles: Indian, Malaysia and Thai. The raw tuna and lime are definite Japanese, but with Thai flavouring. The same with the pork. It was German but with Thai ingredients. The fish we expected to be whole but it was filleted without bones, and with a beautiful sauce.

The rack of lamb was most unusual. It was, of course, New Zealand, grilled, but with a fusion of Asian lemon grass and present with a green papaya salad and a sweet rice roll. Actually it was sticky rice, something none of us had seen before, nor tasted. It was excellent. The texture of the papaya salad seemed to be more refined than normally served in Thailand. It was almost like fine vermicelli but with more depth. None of the dishes had an overbearing spicy flavour. Even the sweet and sour had a fluffy flavor to it.

Deserts were an assortment of Patara selections, and what an intriguing list, all somewhat international. Thai fragrant mango with coconut sweat rice is traditional Thai. The Caramelized baby bananas in light coconut sauce with roasted sesame is traditional Thai except the bananas are caramelized. Also the fragrant young coconut ice cream is definitely Thai, but the passion fruit and mango granited with a splash of champagne is certainly European. The homemade dark chocolate pudding served warm with mango sorbet is a fusion of Thai and European. Others are warm tropical fruits served with Haagen Dazs ice cream and Grand Marnier, and things like Cointreau cappuccino and Santo granita in light syrup.

We had the Häagen-Dazs ice cream bathed in smooth coffee, and pour at our table.

Tom won the bet, hands down. Patara is certainly the best example of blending Thai cuisine with European tht one can find anywhere.

If you happen to be in London, Geneva, Singapore or Taipei, you might want to stop in a Patara restaurant there. Patara in Bangkok opened for three years. Take our son Tom's advice. Go there for an evening of elegant dining.

Address: 2 Sathborn Road, Soi 11, Bangkok