It isn't good decor that makes good dining and the Prachak Restaurant on New Road in Bangkok will prove that. There's nothing fancy about the place -- no banners, no signs in English and no fancy displays to lure customers. It's only by word of mouth that you hear about the place. Once you eat there you discover why. You will want to tell everyone about your great discovery.

Located at 1415 New Road (aka 1415 Charoen Krung), down at Bangrat market, I have been going there for lunch for decades. It's always a bit crowded, but that doesn't matter. I find I can always squeeze in at a table with someone else. No one minds. In fact, it's expected. And for my lunch I always the same order -- wonton mee soup with yellow noodles.

That's of course, is when I am alone. If I am with Michelle she orders up a strom. The noodle soup at Prachak restaurant has to be the best in Bangkok.

When I am in town and met with friends I take the to Prachak for a surprise. It's an experience for anyone who doesn't know Bangkok. The first surprise is that the soup chef has his cook stove in front of the restaurant, practically in the street. Across from him is a glass-inned cage where a dozen roasted duck hang on display.

Once past the noodle cook you slide back a glass door and you find yourself in a long air-conditioned room with tables, the size of postage stamps, along both wall. There is also a room upstairs but I have never ventured that far. I like the excitement downstairs, the mingling with people. Here at Prachak's you don't expect any fancy decor. Menus are in Thai script on the tiled walls. If you are a foreigner (farang) and enter the place, the waiters will brig you a menu the size of a small telephone book. It has names in English and photographs of the dishes. You can't go wrong.

As I mentioned, Michelle and I have been going there for years, anytime we are in the Shangri-La Hotel area or shopping at Bangrat. It was until recently, however, that I struck up a conversation with the owner, Sanguan Mahasirimongkol. (He gave me his name card.), and I was to learn a few things about the Prachak Restaurant which came as a surprise.

Mr. Sanguan was proud to tell me, in very good English, that the restaurant first opened its door, at the very same location, in 1897, a hundred and ten years ago. That has to be some kind of record. Also, Mr. Sanguan said he is the fourth generation to own and operate the restaurant. Sitting behind the desk, and always with a wide smile on her face is his mother, Mrs. Kaewfah. Mr. Sanguan has three children. His oldest, his son, is a medical doctor in Bangkok, and he has two daughter, both whom help out in the restaurant when they are not at their studies.

Prachak's is strictly a Thai restaurant and recommended for anyone who want a taste of real Thai cuisine. As I said, the menu has photographs so you can't go wrong there, and there are all the favorite Thai dishes to choose from. You can also call Mr. Sanguan and he will make some suggestions.

And did I mention it. The mee noodle soup is the best in Bangkok.