Alfredo's where we once ate is a tiny restaurant in Rome, and we would suggest anyone who wants a superb Italian meal to go there. But if you are not up to spending a pocket full of money for a round-trip air ticket, and for other expenses like hotels and taxis, we have another idea. Go down to the Shangri-La on the River of Kings, which you can reach by river taxi or Sky Train, and dine at Angelini. The food there is as great as anything you can get in Italy, and there's no air fare. And their chefs, they are always right out of Italy.

Angelini is no ordinary restaurant, neither in menu nor decor. It's interesting design is on several levels. When you enter, there's a bar on the left and to the left you step down to a delightful, long dining area where the kitchen and ovens are right in the open. You can even find seats along the counter where you can watch the chefs prepare the meals. There's no hidden secrets here. But this is only part. There's another lower level which you can observe from above.

Having the desire for some Italian food the other night, we went to Angelini for dinner. We took a table where we could watch the action below.

The most difficult part of dining at Angelini is deciding what to eat. The menu is a couple of pages of suggestions, each one sounding better than the last one. Consider the appetizers: smoked salmon with baby leeks, Pan-Fried Goose Liver with Apple Compote, Deep-fried Calamari, Steamed fresh Asparagus Olive Oil Zabaglione, Fresh Avocado "Mattonella" with tomato Jam, and Fresh Shucked Oysters with Vodka & Tabasco Sauce.

I couldn't resist the smoked salmon, Michelle chose the Fresh Avocado with tomato Jam. Don't let the fresh baked bread be your downfall. Bakers do the baking right in front of your eyes, and the small of fresh bread is overwhelming. And when they put a small platter thin slices of bread smothered in garlic and olive oil, you can't stop eating. And at Angelini you soon learn the portions are not small. our salmon could have been a meal itself.

I love soup before my main course, but decided to pass, in spite of the menu revealing a few Italian classic, like Tuscan Minestrone, Kipfler Potato Cream Soup with Scrimps.

And how's this for salad: Caesar Style Salad With Smoked Chicken or Smoked Salmon, Tomato and Mozzarella with Mixed Greens, Warm Salmon Salad with Asparagus, Salad of Rocket Greens, and Bresaola and Parmesan Cheese. How can you resist?

I have to admit, I did make a mistake. We came for Italian food and I ordered a Prime U.S. sirloin. I don't mean the steak wasn't good. In fact, it was excellent, but then I missed the Pasta and Risotto delights. Imagine this: Linguine with Clams, Taccole with Scallops and Parma Ham, Taleggio Cheese and Tomato, Potato Gnocchi, and of course Lasagna, either Alla Bolognese or Vegetarian. Or what about Paglia e Fieno which is a yellow and green Ribbon Pasta with Four Types of Cheese Cream Sauce. One I wanted to try, but was afraid to ask, was Black Truffle and Porcini.

And imagine going to an Italian restaurant and not ordering spaghetti. I remember going to Alfredos in Rome that we mentioned, and ordered spaghetti, and nothing else. I never realized it, but it would be like going to a restaurant in New York and ordering just potatoes. So along with our steak, I had to have Spaghetti or Garlic and Olive Oil.

And for the pizza lovers, you can create your own pizza.

The Main Courses at Angelli also read like a telephone book. The choice is endless. Chicken Breast Filled with Parma Ham, Mozzarella on a bed of Mashed Potatoes, Rack of Lamb with Summer Vegetables, Prime US Sirloin with truffle, Sweet Corn Cake and Virgin Olive Oil or Prime U.S. Fillet, Sirloin or T-Bone Steak with grilled Vegetables and Barolo Sauce with Black Olives, Dutch Veal Medallions grilled Potatoes and Parmesan Cheese Sauce, Grilled Tiger Prawns, with a Savarin of Semolina and Braised Endives, Grilled Salmon or Baked with Almond Crust with Caramelized Fennel.

The seafood cooked Italian style also comes in many choices: A "Mosaico" of Salmon, Sea Bass, Tiger Prawn and Snow Fish with Garlic Flavoured Cannellini Beans, Steamed or Grilled Snow Fish on Lemon Scented Young Spinach with Vegetable Coulis & Balsamico Glaze, Baked Marinated Sea Bass with a Seafood Sauce

And would you believe, you can also get Roasted Spring Chicken from the Rotisserie served with Mashed Potatoes and Asparagus

The deserts were our undoing. The list was so long we pointed to the first in line and ordered: Italian Dream, A Selection of Mini Desserts. It was absolutely delicious, especially with a s special after dinner drink, Grappa. we felt like Ernest Hemingway. In one of his novels that's all the talked about--Grappa.

But let me list a few other deserts: Warm Chocolate Souffle with Bailey's Irish Cream Sauce, Panna Cotta with Double Cappucino sauce, Baked Apple Tart with Balsamic Ice cream, Wild Berry Creme Brulee with Berry Compote, Napoleon of Ricotta with Grappa Sauce, Chocolate Mousse. There's more, and the list goes on

After dinner drinks, other than Grappa, will depend upon your wallet. You can have an inexpensive but pleasant DiGavi or a Di Chardonnay-Alexanderplat.

The Cognacs and Armagnacs run the gamete. The top of the line is Remy Martin. Louis XIII.

As we said, you don't have to go all the way to Rome, not with Angelini at the Shangra-La in Bangkok.